Jesse’s Restaurant calls itself “one of the best-kept secrets in the South.” It anchors a street corner in one of Alabama’s tiniest towns, Magnolia Springs, a small enclave (population 723) and hidden gem that’s sitting in the shadows of more crowded coastal locales like Fairhope, Orange Beach, Gulf Shores and Foley.

Jesse’s also shares its hometown’s ambiance. Time seems to slow down in Magnolia Springs, perhaps lulled by the shade from the area’s many and ancient live oaks. Or maybe it’s simply keeping pace with the lazy current of the Magnolia River as it flows through town. Whatever causes it, this leisurely vibe permeates the walls of Jesse’s and is your first clue that your meal will provide much more than food.

You’re greeted with a hospitable hostess smile as you stroll into the white clapboard building, an area landmark opened in 1922 as the Moore Bros. Store, which sold general provisions for the community. In 1998 it became Jesse’s Restaurant, and the eatery’s founding owners named their new establishment in honor of Jesse King, a beloved shopkeeper from the general store known for his 60 years of dedication.

Owners Steve and Angie Coltharp bought Jesse’s in 2012 with the vision of consistently delivering not just delicious dishes but memorable moments, too. “Our goal from the beginning was to be a destination restaurant,” Steve says. “We’re really creating a whole experience here.”

Both Coltharps were working in the restaurant business in Colorado before looking to move closer to Steve’s parents, who’d retired near Magnolia Springs. When they saw Jesse’s up for sale, they jumped on it. And thanks to their food-service backgrounds, they had a good idea what it would take to make their dream of outshining competitors and becoming a truly special spot a reality.

The Farmer’s Chopped Salad is a bowl full of freshness, but the bright pink beet-pickled eggs are a true treat. (Jennifer Kornegay / Alabama Living)

The recipe starts with service, which, despite Jesse’s languid atmosphere, is perfectly timed: not too fast but certainly not overly slow; attentive but not overbearing.

The next – and essential – element is the food, and the Coltharps took a bit of a leap when they reimagined Jesse’s menu. “What they were offering before was kind of all over the place, so we wanted to focus it and go with a steakhouse theme,” Steve says.

Angie jumps in: “People said we couldn’t do that down here, that everyone would just want fried seafood. But I knew we could if we did it right.”

“Right” means dry and wet-aged steaks — including bone-in cuts — offered with “enhancers” like silky bone marrow butter, a whiskey glaze or crown of jumbo lump crab meat; just-off-the-boat fish like pan-seared snapper with truffle whipped potatoes and an onion-spinach sauté’; and the best supporting ingredients available, plus expert preparation. “We get fresh fish every day,” Steve says, “so we do at least three fish specials every night.”

“We use local vegetables and items at their peak,” Angie adds.

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Jesse’s owners Angie and Steve Coltharp with Jesse’s executive chef Laurence Agnew. (Jennifer Kornegay / Alabama Living)

Chef Laurence Agnew, a recent addition to Jesse’s, is simpatico with the Coltharps’ definition of doing food right. “Seasonal and fresh is my philosophy,” he says. “I love using products that reflect the area.” The menu usually sees major changes quarterly, but Agnew is always tweaking. “I make little additions and deletions based on what’s at its best at that time,” he says.

The Farmer’s Chopped Salad, a selection from the lunch menu, sounds simple enough but aptly showcases the above sentiments, with its super fresh and crisp veggies, pungent blue cheese, crunchy onion straws and a shockingly pink beet-pickled egg (which adds a hint of sweetness not found in the standard boiled version), all dressed in a creamy, vibrant herb dressing made in-house.

The final element of the “experience” is the atmosphere. It goes beyond promoting relaxation to fostering a feeling of community. “This place has always been a gathering spot, and that has not changed. The town is tight-knit, and we love being a part of that,” Angie says. “We have a lot of regulars, including one who remembers coming to the original general store when he was a kid.”

Ensuring each diner’s time at Jesse’s is an event to savor is a labor of love for Angie and Steve, one that gives them the same rewards they provide their guests. “I love the hospitality aspect, forming those relationships with our guests,” Angie says. “I mean, I love beautiful, quality food, but it’s not just about that.”

“When you stop by a table and see happy guests and get those compliments on the food, service and atmosphere, it makes it all worth it,” says Steve.

So worth it that the Coltharps plan to open a second location in Fort Morgan on the bay in the spring.

This story originally appeared in Alabama Living magazine.

Jesse’s Restaurant

14770 Oak St., Magnolia Springs, Alabama

251-965-3827 • jessesrestaurant.com

Lunch hours: Monday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Appetizer hours: Monday-Saturday, 3 p.m.-5 p.m.

Dinner hours: Monday-Thursday, 5 p.m.-9 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m.