There’s an old adage that applies to lawyers, gas stations and restaurants that might seem counterintuitive: If you’re the only option in town, you’ll go broke. But if you have some competition, everyone will do well.

Despite numerous lunch and bar fare options, Montgomery’s Cloverdale neighborhood is semi-lacking in dinner options.

Enter Shashy’s — the staple of epic breakfasts, power lunches and the best baked goods offerings in Montgomery — now offering dinner service Wednesdays, Thursdays and Fridays.

If you’ve ever done business in Montgomery, you’ve probably eaten lunch there at least once. Over the years I’ve broken bread at Shashy’s with lawyers, lobbyists, judges and lawmakers — in the cool art deco diner at Mulberry and Fourth Street.

The nonfried dinner dishes at Shashy’s come accompanied by a twice-baked potato that doesn’t skimp on the cheese or bacon, Brussels sprouts in a tangy, creamy sauce and a dinner roll. (David Mowery / SoulGrown)

I’ve also staked it out at lunch to try to run into some of those lawyers, lobbyists and lawmakers over the years, attended and hosted campaign events and ordered baked goods for special occasions — or just been standing at the pastry case to pay when something I just couldn’t live without caught my eye and made the trip home with me. Or at least the trip to the parking lot.

The proprietor is the always-on-the-go Jimmy Shashy. He’s been running the place for 35 years, give or take, and shows no signs of letting up. He’s also a sometime waiter, head baker and chief menu maker.

And what a menu it is. Always known for its bespoke takes on classic dishes like eggs Benedict at breakfast and the Alabama vegetable plate at lunch, Shashy’s dinner options pick up right where those leave off.

The appetizers are fresh, light and plentiful. Fried green tomatoes with the house-made ranch and the fried oysters with house-made cocktail are joined by Peter Shashy’s Bayou La Batre Raw Oysters, Jimmy’s shrimp and crab gumbo, and red beans and rice — and the rice is always fluffy.

Classic dishes like the otherworldly Greek-style fresh Gulf snapper, the perfectly smoked beef tenderloin and your fried seafood favorites are all accounted for.

Don’t forget the shrimp and oysters. Miss Annie, the 78-year-old fry cook, has been dropping quality seafood into clean, hot grease for more than 20 years. Some say she is the glue that keeps the whole place together.

There’s a great painting of a younger Jimmy Shashy on the wall over the first booth, and I imagine him in full chef mode to come up with the expanded menu — concocting the Porterhouse pork chop, a 14-ounce bone-in pork chop seared to perfection and served with a creole mustard that sends the whole shebang into the stratosphere.

Unfortunately, we couldn’t try one of everything, but rest assured we will return to try the Atlantic halibut and the blackened redfish, each of which passed our table as they were being served to other patrons as we remarked to each other, “Maybe I should have ordered that?”

Of course, when our dishes arrived, we were not disappointed with our choices in the least — the Porterhouse pork chop and the Greek-style snapper.

Deciding what to order can be quite a conundrum at Shashy’s. (Courtney Hancock / SoulGrown)

The nonfried fare dinner dishes are served with a classic light Greek-style salad and come accompanied by a twice-baked potato that doesn’t skimp on the cheese or bacon, Brussels sprouts in a tangy, creamy sauce and a dinner roll to sop up anything that gets lost between the fork and mouth.

Also offered is a small but curated selection of beer and wine. Yours truly no longer partakes, but my wife was happy with her glass of Chenin blanc — described by our friendly waitress as “like a New Zealand sauvignon made with French grapes. Less tart fruit notes and crisper.”

The proverbial cherry on top was the bonbon that made it all the way back to the house with me, enjoyed at 2 a.m. with the fridge open ala Tony Soprano.

The intimate atmosphere and chandeliers work well for dinner service. With booths, larger round tables, four-tops and two-tops, the space can accommodate parties large or small, and everything in between.

If you’re looking for a place to hold a committee dinner, impress an out-of-town client or just want another evening dining option, don’t forget about Shashy’s.

This story originally was published on the SoulGrown website.