Two Alabama coastal restaurants named to list of best dining spots on the continent
Dumbwaiter Restaurant in Mobile was one of two coastal Alabama eateries recently honored by Distinguished Restaurants of North America. (Allanah Taylor / Alabama News Center)
Wes Lambert said dining at Dumbwaiter Restaurant in downtown Mobile is like “eating at your grandparents’ house.”
“We start with a lot of the great old Southern dishes that our grandparents made, and we put a modern spin on them,” he said.
As with those old recipes, people keep coming back for a taste of Dumbwaiter’s dishes. And folks who know food, well beyond lower Alabama, are taking notice.
Indeed, two Mobile-area restaurants, Dumbwaiter and Plane & Level Coastal just across Mobile Bay in Fairhope, were recently named among the best dining spots on the continent by Distinguished Restaurants of North America (DiRōNA).
Dumbwaiter and Plane & Level Coastal were among 98 dining establishments added in February to DiRōNA’s distinguished restaurants list.
DiRōNA works to “elevate the dining experience for restaurant-goers across the United States, Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean,” the organization’s website explains.
“We are thrilled to announce the addition of this outstanding selection of restaurants to our distinguished list,” said Scott Breard, DiRōNA’s CEO. “This achievement is a testament to the relentless pursuit of culinary excellence and the unwavering dedication of their exceptional staff. The DiRōNA Award of Excellence symbolizes a restaurateur’s tireless efforts and commitment to providing an exceptional dining experience.”
Grandmother’s cooking turns into fine dining experience
A native of Mobile, Lambert said he was raised on traditional Southern dishes and fresh seafood and wanted to bring that flavor combination to the city’s downtown area.
“When I decided to open a restaurant nine years ago, nothing was coming to downtown Mobile,” Lambert said. “I felt there needed to be a great dinner spot in downtown Mobile where people could take clients or where tourists could eat. So, I built what I thought we needed – a restaurant with great Southern food and a great staff.”
Visitors to the restaurant will almost feel like they’re stepping back in time when they walk through the door. Located in a space that dates to 1828, diners can look up and marvel at the building’s original rafters and inspect one the oldest elevators in Mobile. But taking center stage in the decor are two dumbwaiters, one on display in the front window and the other holding drinks at the bar.
Lambert describes the atmosphere at Dumbwaiter as “Southern upscale casual.” Its unique dishes are made with only fresh ingredients that are locally and regionally sourced.
Lambert said there are several favorite dishes patrons order over and over, including the new South Brussels Sprouts with bacon lardons; Tensaw Tournedos – two 4-ounce medallions with grilled shrimp; the Dumbwaiter wagyu chopped steak; and the 16-ounce prime rib.
The 16-member staff – most of whom have worked at Dumbwaiter from the beginning – make it their mission to offer diners an unforgettable experience.
“We’re just thankful for everybody who comes to eat with us and support us, especially with so many options nowadays,” Lambert said.
“We try to make the food better every time. If you came in last week and then come back the next week, we want to hear that the food was better than the last time you were here.”
Dumbwaiter’s dining experience is more than better every time: it’s top-notch, according to food critics at DiRoNA. The Mobile restaurant was selected to receive DiRoNA’s Award of Excellence, one of the most prestigious honors in the dining and hospitality industry.
Lambert said being honored with the DiRōNA Award of Excellence was a complete surprise.
“DiRoNA sends people in over time to evaluate your restaurant,” he said. “You never know when they’re coming, but that makes it fair because you don’t change the way you do things.”
Lambert added: “We were so excited to get the award. To be named in the same breath with all these other top restaurants is cool. It just means we’re doing something right and being noticed.”
A true taste of Spain
Co-owners Amelia and Brian Culwell launched Plane & Level Coastal last December, along with sommelier Thomas Perez and Culinary Director Orlando Amaro.
The restaurant specializes in providing diners with a Spanish-inspired, wine and tapas journey.
“The idea for Plane and Level Coastal stemmed from a shared passion for food, wine and hospitality among the partners,” Amelia Culwell said. “Each of us brings a unique background and expertise to the table, and together, we saw an opportunity to introduce Fairhope to a culinary experience unlike any other.”
Relatively new to the Mobile-area dining scene, Plane & Level in Fairhope is already making a statement. (Allanah Taylor / Alabama News Center)
The restaurant’s aviation-inspired decor is a nod to Brian Culwell’s love of flying and his childhood experiences aboard his uncle’s airplane. The theme is apparent throughout the restaurant, with antique propellers at the entrance, a wall covered with pages from old aviation magazines, and servers dressed in vintage-style flight attendant uniforms.
The chatter of diners enjoying their meals is backed by the velvet sounds of standards sung by the likes of Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Prima and Frank Sinatra.
Amelia said what distinguishes Plane & Level Coastal from other restaurants on Alabama’s Eastern Shore are the expertly crafted tapas, like the wagyu beef and vegetable empanadas with chimichurri sauce; chef’s specials like suckling pig and rack of lamb; and the bread, which is parbaked in Spain and flown to the restaurant twice a week.
Amaro said he uses local, organic ingredients in his dishes. “I support local in the area, such as honey, local farms, mushrooms, etc.,” Amaro said. “If we don’t make it, I source the best ingredients.”
Perhaps one of the biggest draws at Plane & Level, Amelia said, is the list of wines and spirits, including an exclusive wine from Ratafia Champenois by Dumangin in Chigny-Les Roses, France.
“They produce only 100 bottles a year, and we purchase all for our restaurant. So, you couldn’t have this wine anywhere else in the country,” Amelia said. “That is the type of experience we want to provide for our patrons.”
Although still new to the community, Plane & Level Coastal comes from good stock; its sister restaurant in Houston, Texas, also boasts a DiRōNA designation.
“Being recognized as one of the most distinguished restaurants of North America by DiRōNA is a tremendous honor for us,” Amelia said. “It reaffirms our commitment to excellence in dining and hospitality, and serves as validation of the hard work and dedication put forth by our entire team.”
One other restaurant in Alabama is on the DiRōNA list: Ocean, a favorite in Birmingham’s Five Points South neighborhood for more than 20 years.
To view the complete list of restaurants across the United States, Canada, Mexico and the Caribbean recognized by DiRōNA, click here.
Allanah Taylor contributed to this report.
